How to Build a Shower Base - Step by Step

Most do it yourself people can learn how to build a shower base. It's a step-by-step process that's fairly simple to do, but it's easy to go wrong too. To get the general idea of what needs to be done, follow these steps.

1. Framing to start.
Framing the shower seems like a simple matter. And it is, in a way. It's just simple wall framing using conventional methods. Here's the trick though. The closer to square and plumb the walls and framing are, the simpler it is to get the tile right. That's why many tiles setters want to frame the showers themselves. It's faster than dealing with somebody else's mess.

2. Support counts too.
The floor support must be solid. That means floor joists must be solid and so must the subfloor be too. See, a single sheet of plywood may be too bouncy to support the shower pan. If the subfloor moves, that may result in cracked tile. Solid subfloor is a must.

3. Curb failures...
Another framing key is right at the shower curb. Forget about box framing. Use stacked wood or even brick, but not open framing. That's the best way to a curb that lasts.

4. Mortar layer one...
The mortar shower base is in two mud layers. The bottom or first layer is sloped and is the base for the shower liner membrane. Why not just one layer? The liner membrane must be on a slope to move the water to the drain. Leave out the sloped base for the liner and you'll have water pooled with the shower base. That produces mold, mildew and a big mess.

5. The liner...
Some shower builders don't know that a shower pan must include a waterproof layer. That's because a shower floor cannot be waterproof. The grout allows water to pass right through and some tiles do too. That's why a shower pan has a waterproof layer built right in. THe liner catches the water and route it to the special tile shower drain.

6. Wall covering...
The liner slopes right up the wall to build a waterproof layer up the wall. But the wall covering must be built to withstand water too. That's why cement board is usually used. The trick is the cement board must be installed properly or it becomes a moldy mess too. There's a right way to use the cement board...

7. Top mortar layer.
The mortar layer that forms the top of the shower pan is laid right over the waterproof liner. It too is sloped and is built of the same material as the lower layer. The mortar used for the base is called deck mud. It's a simple mix, but whatever you do don't use masonry mix. It has lime in it and that causes serious problems.

If you want to learn how to build a shower base, you must learn why each layer is important. Building a shower pan is just a step-by-step construction project. Each step is simple, but there are a number of tricks to know. The hard part is that the tricky parts are all hidden after the shower is finished.

We have a free series on our website that describes every step of shower pan installation, so you can get it right the first time.

Visit http://InstallingCeramicTile.net for answers to your tile shower questions.

Basement Waterproofing Secrets Revealed!

A wet basement does not necessarily indicate that you have a poorly built home. In fact, a lot of cement built houses have water problems in their basement. Learning how to do basement waterproofing should help you to take care of such a problem. Simultaneously, if you learn to do it yourself, you can save a lot of money by cutting down on labor costs.

The Cause

There are some houses that have no waterproofed walls and foundations and this is the reason behind wet or damp basements. To have a dry basement, one should have efficient basement waterproofing inside and out. But older houses may not have had good waterproofing because of the technology available in the past compared to what is available at present. There are also buildings built on wet land next to bodies of water. Cases like this make it even more important for basement waterproofing to be present.

When To Do It

If you are building a new house or building then this is one of the first measures you should take when the foundation has been built. Waterproofing a basement efficiently when it is first built will ensure that it will last for a long time. This is also the best time to do basement waterproofing because it's much easier to get into small spaces before they are closed off due to constructions, such as corners and even areas where drainage pipes will be installed.

Old Houses And Waterproofing

Anybody who owns a fairly old house will first one to check its basement walls. Drainage pipes and where they run is another thing to check. If walls and the floor need to be waterproofed, one will need to use a multi-layer membrane system which means that one has to cover cracks in the walls and foundations from the inside and the outside if possible. One way to do this is to use tar because it seals up cracks efficiently. If this doesn't improve the condition of a basement, then the aid of professionals is called for. However, this can be done alone or with the help of friends.

Improving The Exterior

One way how to do basement waterproofing effectively is to work on the outside walls of a basement wall first. One should also observe the flow of water and thus channel the water away from the basement area. A system using a series of ditches should do the trick to help redirect water away from the building and its foundations. The water can also be redirected to a pool that can be drained once in a while.

Rebuilding

One other way to do basement waterproofing is to rebuild the basement of your house. Of course, this does not mean that you have to destroy the foundations of the house. All you need to do is reinforce the walls completely with a layer of cement and hot tar where it is needed. This will not only help keep the basement dry but will strengthen the foundation of the house. Also, if there are any busted pipes, you will need to replace them with new fittings.

Products One Can Use

Proper waterproofing means using the right products. The traditional way is to use cement for the walls and floors. Likewise, tar can be used to cover cracks and thus disallows water from seeping through those cracks. But there are new products on the market that are quite expensive to use, like epoxy. They have proven not to be more effective than traditional ways but there is promise in the technology to improve in the future. Epoxy can be injected into cracks in the wall and again this can be quite expensive.

A dry basement is important for any house. This is especially true for houses that are more than 20 years old. Remember that a damp basement usually means that there is a leak or damaged foundation somewhere that needs to be repaired. Learning how to do basement waterproofing and knowing when to waterproof will save your basement and perhaps a little money if done alone.

Discover these top basement waterproofing advices online. Check out the best basement waterproofing system for your home.

Read another article here - Interior Waterproofing of Basement

Foundation Waterproofing Sprayers

Foundation waterproofing spray equipment can be the biggest capital expenditure for a waterproofing contractor when they are starting out. It is important to purchase the right piece of spray equipment for your business. Too large of a piece of equipment and it may be difficult to stay above water. Too small and you may not be able to spray enough foundations in a day for your customers.

It is also important to purchase a foundation waterproofing sprayer that works for the type of material that you are spraying. The most common type of waterproofing used in residential new construction today is asphalt based products. Asphalt based products have the advantage of being relatively inexpensive and readily available. They are formulated to meet national and local building codes and in some cases have been on the market for decades.

Dampproofing vs Waterproofing

The first thing a waterproofing contract must know is the difference between dampproofing and waterproofing. They are not the same thing. Traditionally, foundations have been coated with asphalt-based dampproofing. Dampproofing does an excellent job of keeping the dampness out of a basement. That is it stops water vapor from penetrating from the soil around the basement and into the living area of the basement. It must be noted that dampproofing does not stop water under hydrostatic pressure or cover cracks that develop in a foundation.

According to national building codes, foundation waterproofing has to do three things to be considered a true waterprofoing material.

It must stop water vapor from penetrating to the interior
It must span shrinkage cracks that develop in a foundation wall
It must prevent water under hydrostatic pressure from penetrating into the basement

The most common foundation waterproofing material used today in new residential construction is polymer-modified asphalt. This is the basic asphalt that is used for dampproofing with the addition of polymers that allow it to stretch and withstand hydrostatic pressure.

Emulsion Vs. Solvent-Base Materials

Foundation waterproofing and dampproofing comes in two varieties, emulsion (water-base) and solvent-base. Emulsion materials require little or no heating of the material to spray. Solvent-base materials usually must be heated to 130-150 degrees F in order to spray. It is therefore extremely important to choose the right spray equipment for the material you are using.

Foundation Waterproofing Sprayer

A basement waterproofing contractor needs a sprayer that will do the job reliably and quickly. The best method of spraying a solvent-based material is to have a heated tank system. The tank is filled with the waterproofing material. The tank will have a pipe inside it that is surrounded by waterproofing material. This pipe is connected to the truck engine cooling system. The heat from the truck heats the material in the tank.

A solvent-based material waterproofing sprayer will also have a heat exchanger. A heat exchanger rapidly heats the waterproofing material to the final spray temperature. It is also connected to the truck engine's cooling system.

Emulsion-based waterproofing spray equipment can be used with a tank, tote or simply suck straight out of a drum. This is because the emulsion-based waterproofing needs less heating to spray. A smaller heat exchanger than one used on a solvent-based waterproofing sprayer is all that is needed to get the material to the proper temperature.

It is recommended that emulsion waterproofing sprayers be an enclosed unit or one that is mounted inside a box van bodied truck. This is because the waterproofing material can freeze in cold temperatures and prevent the unit from working properly.

Additional Features

For ease of use a foundation waterproofing sprayer should have an electric hose reel. This will allow a contractor to quickly finish a job and continue to another. Also, the spray hose should be insulated and covered with an abrasion protection sleeve. This will both keep the waterproofing material at the proper spray temperature and protect the hose from damage.

Temperature gauges should be on both the tank and the spray hose so that the contractor knows the temperature of the waterproofing material. A pressure gauge is useful for both correct spraying and in diagnosing any problems that may occur with the pump.

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz who's with Applied Technologies Aaron has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States. To learn more about foundation waterproofing sprayers visit Applied Technologies on the web.

Commercial Waterproofing: Know the Basics

Many buildings need to be waterproofed in order to stay protected from the elements, which is why there is a need for commercial waterproofing. This kind of service ensures that water damage does not ruin a building, as it often does destroy material that stays outdoors all the time. Find out what this offering can do for any type of structure, as well as why property owners typically need to get this kind of service to ensure that their building stays in good shape for years.

One way to keep a business protected from water damage is to make sure that the foundation is also resistant to it. Certain commercial waterproofing sprays can be applied before an edifice is even fully built, as it can be sprayed onto the foundation. Even the area around it can become waterproof, as walls, parking structures, and exterior stairs can all be sprayed with this kind of substance, as well. This is one of the simplest ways that many companies work to protect structures.

Another job for a commercial waterproofing company is to check for leaks in the walls and roofs of buildings. This can prevent moisture from getting inside and damaging the interior, which could clearly be quite costly. If any leaks are found, this type of company may be able to repair them, or at least recommend a local business that can, and then make sure the exterior is waterproofed so that it stays well-maintained for years to come.

One of the main reasons that commercial waterproofing is important for any edifice is that water damage can be very expensive to get rid of. Mildew is never pleasant to smell, and mold can cause destruction to floors, walls, and ceilings. In some cases, buildings may need to be evacuated for some time while being repaired due to this kind of damage, which disrupts anyone using the structure. This is especially not desirable for businesses since they can lose money due to both treating the area for mold and closing for days.

Clearly, there is a need for commercial waterproofing businesses, as buildings need to be protected from the damage often caused by water. Interior flooding is never a good thing, but buildings can gradually be destroyed from excess water on the exterior, as well. For this reason, most building owners are willing to pay good money to find and use a company that provides quality when it comes to this service.

In Tampa, commercial waterproofing [http://www.commercialrooferflorida.com/waterproofing.html] protects your house against rain and groundwater. Find an installer today at [http://www.commercialrooferflorida.com/].

Make Sure All Your Walls Are Protected - Waterproof Them

It all starts with water seeping through small cracks and creases barely visible to the eyes. And before you know it there is a pool of water suddenly flooding your basement. You realize it's time for some serious waterproofing of the walls of the building and you need to go about it right away. How do you get it done? What are the points you need to keep in mind while getting this renovation done?

Over the past two decades, a lot of advancement has been achieved with respect to waterproofing techniques in concrete construction. Epoxy grouting is the use of a combination of resin and hardener as proofing material and is available in many brands. Polyurethane (PU) grouting involves the use of packers that are injected with PU to enable packing. This is often applied in static joints or cracks in concrete structures. Chemical penetration is often used with products like Xypex or Krystalline, which account for a higher level of accuracy in proofing.

In spite of these improved products available in the market today, it is very difficult to undertake a basement waterproofing procedure after the building is finished. If the problem of water seeping inside persists long after the building has been constructed, then only expert professionals can handle the redoing of the walls of the basement.

Nowadays, you find professional help who not only specialize in basement waterproofing but who also handle foundation repair. The underground soil keeps changing from time to time. This is due to seasonal influences and water seeping in. Water soaks in for many reasons like drainage, defective plumbing, improper downspout or gutter control in the drainage system. The soil that your house is built on is a part of the foundation which contracts or expands depending upon the wetness. This leads to cracks forming in the foundation that in turn lead to water seepage.

Waterproofing is incomplete if the foundation is not repaired because sooner or later, water will reach the basement. Often large tree roots are found to hamper the foundation structure and create heaved or cracked driveways. The basic idea is to check that there is no water accumulation around the building walls. Therefore, slopes are created near the building walls to make way for flow of water away from the building.

If you are considering interior and exterior waterproofing, DC has the answer to your needs in the form of Worlwide Basement Waterproofing who are experts in basement and foundation repair and proofing techniques. All you need to do is give them a call and they will be more than happy to come to your assistance!

Waterproofing Arlington VA - Worldwide Basement Waterproofing provides basement waterproofing systems, crawl space waterproofing, mold removal and foundation repair services in Fairfax, Arlington & Alexandria, Virginia (VA), Maryland (MD) & District of Columbia (DC).

Cellar and Basement Waterproofing and Conversions

INTRODUCTION

This guide is aimed at helping the private homeowner to evaluate the conflicting advice that one is often present with when asking various 'experts' within the industry on the best way of solving a basement waterproofing problem.

PART 1:- THE VARIETY OF BASEMENT STRUCTURES AND USES.

Very simply, from a waterproofing perspective, basements fall into three categories:-

A. Non-Waterproof Masonry Structures

B. Integrally Waterproof Structures

C. Drained Cavity Structures

Their uses are often classified into four grades:-

1. Low grade (garages etc where some water on the floor really does not matter that much)

2. Storage grade (the environment has to be reasonably dry but not to habitable standard so ventilation etc is not so important and some dampness may still be tolerated)

3. Habitable grade (walls and floors have to be dry and humidity controlled to within a range suitable for living)

4. Special needs (where total control of temperature and humidity is essential for storing archives, fine wines, sensitive computing installations, valuable works of art etc).

Category 4 is not usually required for normal domestic purposes and will, here-on-in be ignored.

So put simply, your basement will be either A, B or C and you will want to use it for 1,2, or 3

What could be simpler than ABC 123!!!?

A little elaboration is need on the ABC I think...

Type A, the non-waterproof masonry structures will include brick block-work, stone. The floors and walls ore more often than not separate elements of the structure, i.e. they are not tied together by steel reinforcement, and they can therefore move differentially to each other. This is a crucial point when selecting a waterproofing system as may systems require a rigid structure for them to work effectively.

MOST OLDER STYLE DOMESTIC PROPERTIES FALL INTO THE TYPE A CATEGORY.

Type B, the (supposedly) integrally waterproof structure. These are usually build of reinforced concrete where the walls and floor are tied together with reinforcement and the whole structure is designed to be suitable thick and strong and water tight without the need for additional waterproofing. However, unfortunately, an engineers' or architects theoretical drawings and calculations are not always translated on site perfectly and a slight defect in a water-bar (the plastic strip that seals joints in the structure) a poorly compacted bit of concrete at the bottom of a pour, perhaps a little too much water in the mix resulting in shrinkage cracking can all lead to leaks where there should be none!

MANY MODERN BASEMENT STRUCTURES FALL INTO THE TYPE B CATEGORY - we will only be concerned with the 'failed type B's as the successes obviously do not need waterproofing!

Type C. Many civil engineering structures involving deep basements are constructed in the drained cavity format. Next time you are in a basement car-park of a big shopping center, maybe two or storyes down and you are looking at a nice neat DRY concrete block wall, perhaps you will wonder why it is so dry so far below ground - well perhaps not, - but if your single story domestic basement is flooded then perhaps you WILL wonder how they achieve this.

Very simply, the block-work wall that you are looking at is separated by a CAVITY between it and the earth retaining walls beyond. The earth retaining wall is often very wet, maybe even running with water ingress but the inner wall is kept dry by virtue of the 'drained cavity' in-between. The water from the cavity has to be drained somewhere and it is usually drained into a sump chamber from where it is pumped out.

Whilst is is rare for a domestic property to be constructed of a masonry or concrete drained cavity wall a 'miniature' drained cavity is often created by the application of a membrane to the earth retaining wall, thus creating a cavity between the retaining wall and the membrane itself. Thus a Type A masonry structure can often be converted to a Type C structure by the application of such a membrane.

But this leads us on to the waterproofing.....

PART 2 METHODS OF WATERPROOFING.

Towards the end of the last section I was describing how the 'structure' and the 'waterproofing' in a drained cavity situation are integrally linked. If the structure has a drained cavity then the drained cavity is part of the structure but is also an integral part of the waterproofing. The same is true of a tanked Type A structure where the structure is just as important as the water-proofing as the former has to hold the latter in place. This is crucially important point to understand, failure to appreciate how the structure and the waterproofing work together and depend on each other is a common cause of failure of waterproofing systems.

Waterproofing a Type A Structure

Basically there are TWO distinct approaches:-

1. Applying a 'Tanking System' This will be a coating of some sort bonded to the walls and floor to create an inside out 'tank' A tank where the water is on the outside.

2. Converting the structure to a Type C 'Drained Cavity' Structure by the installation of a drained cavity membrane together with drainage channels and sump and pump.

There are sub-divisions within these generic methods, but in principal you are either trying to 'hold water back' or you are 'draining it away.

Let us look in more detail at the each method.

1. TANKING

Anything from bitumen paint; asphalt (a mixture of sand and tar) sand / cement render and screed with waterproof additives to specially formulated slurry coatings can and have been used.

The big drawback with this method is that you are fighting water pressure (potentially at any rate, not all basements are subject to water-pressure all the time but you should assume that any basement COULD be subject to water pressure at some time in the future).

THIS METHOD IS TOTALLY DEPENDENT UPON THE QUALITY OF THE STRUCTURE TO WHICH IT IS APPLIED.

Failure to appreciate this has led to many failures, unnecessary expense, heartache and tears.

Most type A structures are prone to differential movement - that is the walls and floor may move differentially to each other and form a small crack at the wall floor joint, or the walls and floor may flex inwards slightly, but enough to crack the tanking system.

Differently to differential movement but just as important is the 'integral strength of the substrate' particularly the tensile strength.

Now I do not want to get too technical here so let me explain what I mean in simple terms.

Imagine a waterproof coating adhering to the inside face of a brick wall. Water on the outside of the wall is tending to 'push' on the back of the coating as if it were trying to push it off. I say 'as if' because of course the water is not 'trying' to do anything it does not have a mind of its own, it is just responding to gravity and obeying the laws of physics.

So if you have that picture so far, imagine that the waterproof coating has been applied perfectly to that the bond between the brick and the coating is strong. The brick is going to experience a 'stretching force as the face of the brick is pushed away from the wall.

And, yes it does not take too much imagination to visualise what happens next, the face of the brick comes away with the waterproof coating as bricks are not very good at resisting being stretched (the technical term is that they have a low tensile strength).

Such a failure would not happen in a swimming pool though. Here the water pressure is on the other side and is tending to push the waterproof coating onto the wall, compressing the masonry behind it. Now masonry is good in compression to the system does not fail.

Another serious issue is the build up of salts behind the tanking system.

Many people will be familiar with this every day phenomenon.

When water evaporates it leaves behind the small traces of substances that were dissolved in it. We see this on the element of a kettle. The same happens when water evaporates in the wall of a cellar or basement. Salt crystals can often be seen on the wall surface (often mistaken for mold) sometimes these crystals form behind paintwork and push the paint off in blisters, which when popped, reveal the salt crystals behind.

Many tanking systems are sold as 'breathable' renders. They are designed to stop liquid water coming through but allow the wall to 'breathe' i.e. allow evaporation to take place and for moisture vapour to escape.

So..... if the water is going to evaporate, then it is going to leave behind a growing layer of salt crystals, the crucial question is, in a bonded system, where, exactly, is the space for these crystals?"

The simple answer is that there is none, so as the salt crystals grow they make their own space by pushing the render or other coating off the wall and we have another tanking failure.

Now, this is the point where I may be accused of being biased against tanking systems, but I am not! I am biased against systems that fail, that is for sure, against systems that are applied to inappropriate substrates.

IT NEEDS TO BE SAID. "APPLYING A BONDED TANKING SYSTEM TO AN OLDER STYLE MASONRY STRUCTURE IS ASKING FOR FAILURE".

And the vast majority of basement waterproofing projects are in older-style masonry structures.

Q. Why does tanking appear to work a lot of the time?

A. BECAUSE THERE IS NO WATER PRESSURE A LOT OF THE TIME. As soon as water pressure appears, i.e. from a burst water main, unusually heavy rain, change in ground drainage due to building works etc the tanking will 'fail'.

I have lost count of the number of times that people have told me that the tanking worked for years and then just happened to fail on the one day that there was water pressure. - "The day we left the hose on" or "the day the pipe burst in the ground".

So, in conclusion, bonded tanking systems should only be used when it can be foreseen that there never will be any water pressure or when the structure is suitably rigid and the substrate has a suitably high tensile strength for the waterproofing system to be held in place by the structure without de-lamination or cracking. These circumstances are relative rare and represent where tanking COULD be used not SHOULD be used.

2. CONVERTING THE STRUCTURE TO A TYPE C DRAINED CAVITY

It is explicitly recognized in the British Standard BS8102 "Protecting structures below Ground against Water" that this is the most reliable and trouble free method of waterproofing a basement.

Many specialist contractors (who used to be 'tanking specialists' have change to this method over recent years and it appears to be a one way street. I have never heard of a specialist contractor turning from drained cavity to 'Tanking'.

In it's most basic form, this consists of fixing a plastic membrane (usually but not always) dimpled over the walls and floor. The idea of the dimples is to create a 'space' for the water to flow - typically 8mm on walls and 20mm on the floor.

These membranes are not 'bonded' to the wall but mechanically fixed with plastic fixings and intervals, leaving the membrane un-bonded in-between.

Now in reality, if water IS running down the wall it usually in an immeasurably thin film, not 8mm thick, if that amount of water were ever to come down an internal wall surface no sump and pump would ever cope with it and the wall fabric would probably not last very long, so the need for the 8mm dimples is a basement waterproofing myth!

One of the big drawbacks with plastic membranes is that they prevent moisture vapour from moving through them but do not retain heat so you can get a build up of moisture vapour on a cold surface - a recipe for condensation. I have seen puddles on floors caused by this.

Using a thermally insulated membrane which keeps the vapour barrier warm and keeping some background heat on is the answer, possibly complimented with a dehumidifier.

Ventilation, whilst necessary for fresh oxygen and eliminating stale air IS NOT the answer to condensation as it can bring in more humid air from the outside. If you heat and dehumidify your basement air - you want to keep it not ventilate it away!

A drained cavity system depends entirely upon the sump and pump system that ultimately evacuates the water from the basement. This is an area that should not be skimped on as nothing will work without it. We would always recommend the use of a bespoke sump and pump system which will include a pre-formed liner, pump stand and alarm. Sump liners are often perforated to allow water directly from the ground below the floor slab. This 'de-watering' of the earth under the floor often stops the walls and floor from leaking at all and so reduces the importance of the roll of the wall and floor membrane. In fact in many cases the 'Cavity Drain Membrane' becomes no more than a vapour barrier rather than a conduit for leaking water. Even less need for dimples then and more importance on the insulating qualities of the membrane (to prevent the membrane from becoming a condensation trap).

The most basic sump will have a single mains pump. Battery back up pumps are available and should be seriously considered for habitable grade as the consequences of a failure can be huge, with carpets furniture, plasterboard, joinery all being at risk.

Battery pumps usually run off 12volt DC current directly from the battery, others however run off AC (current like you get from the mains) which is converted from DC (battery current) by a DC-AC converter. Such converted current is not as efficient and much bigger batteries are required to give the same pumping capacity if you are using such a converter.

Battery pumps are somewhat limited as compared with the mains pump, they tend to be less powerful on the whole and depend upon a limited charge n the battery. So it can be considered prudent to have a SECOND mains pump to act as the primary back up (protects against every cause of failure other than a power cut - and then a THIRD pump which is the battery pump which takes over in the event of a power cut.

Either way, careful consideration should be given to choosing a good quality sump and pump system that is appropriate for the project. For larger basements more than one sump and pump may be needed.

Whilst water may run down a wall easily - as gravity works that way - it is not so easy for water to run horizontally over a floor. So the idea of having a 'dimpled floor membrane' that water has to somehow meander under and find the sump is rather outdated. The modern way is to include a perimeter underfloor channeling system that will direct the water directly under the floor to the sump.

Once the membranes are in place an internal finish of plasterboard supported on timber battens or metal stud is normally used for the walls and a floor finish of board or screed is laid over the floor membrane.

There is a neater floor treatment known as Thermal Dry Floor Tile which combines the water-proofing together with the floor finish in the form of an interlocking plastic tile which requires no further overlay.

'Other methods'

To all intents and purposes what we have covered, relates to about 95% of existing basements.

However, there are a few 'other' things that are worthy of a brief mention as they are relatively rarely needed, but when they are they are important:-

1. A variation on the underfloor channeling is an 'above floor channel, like a hollow skirting board that bonded to the floor. This is useful for structural floors that cannot be chased out to accept an underfloor channel.

2. Resin Grouting. This involves drilling and injecting the structure with water reactive grouts that use up the ingressing water in a chemical reaction and turn the resin and water mixture into an impervious substance deep within the 'leak pathway', thus preventing further leakages. This methodology is only relevant on sound structures with defined clacks or joints, such as a cracked concrete retaining wall, not for generally porous substrates such as brick or block.

3. 'Dewatering System' It is often possible to stop a basement from flooding and achieve a grade 1 or 2 environment by using a perforated sump liner and pumping system and underfloor channeling alone - no membranes to the wall or floor, so the system is not a 'drained cavity system as such but a 'de-watered system'.

4. Combination Systems. sometimes the best approach is to use a combination of systems rather than just one. Resin grouting could be use to stem high water flows followed by a tanking or drained cavity system. A de-watering system with additional waterproofing to the walls OR floor can sometimes be relevant. Using perimeter underfloor drainage separates the walls and floor so that different systems can be applied to each, either different kinds of membrane or different generic systems, such as membrane to the wall and waterproof cement to the floor. The latter is useful if bonded ceramic tiles and required as the final floor finish.

If you are considering a combination system you should really speak with a true expert in order to determine what will work and what will not - do not rely on friends or the local general builder if they are not experts in basement waterproofing!

And one final point, If you want to know the 'cheapest' way to waterproof your basement, then I will tell you...

Do it right first time!

I have know so may people do a £500.00 bitumen paint job followed by a £3,000 'tanking slurry' followed by a £5,000.00 drained cavity system.

They thought that £500 was the cheapest but ended up paying £8,500.00.

If it isn't going to work, then it isn't the cheapest.

£5,000.00 is less than £8,500.00!!!

So what about DIY Basement Waterproofing?

Well now with several professional systems available with full on site support you can achieve a totally professional, warrantied job with full after sales service and do most of the work yourself and save £'000's!!

So happy waterproofing and hope you found this guide useful!!!

Copyright 2009 Ray Foulkes MSc DMS Cellar conversion specialist.

The author, Ray Foulkes has served several years as technical officer for the British Structural Waterproofing Association and is author of the BSWA design guide 'Waterproofing existing basements'.

Through his group of companies he offers a complete package for cellar conversions see http://www.polycrete.co.uk where you can get a quote for your cellar conversion project.

How To Correctly Build A Tile Shower Floor Pan

The most important part of the entire shower project to get right is absolutely the floor pan!

And, not surprisingly, this is where most do-it-yourselfers, make a mistake, try to make a shortcut, or just flat out get it wrong. Building the floor pan incorrectly can lead to leaking, of course, but also mold growth underneath the tile and mortar bed if a proper "pre-slope" isn't installed. But, I don't want to get ahead of myself, I'll cover all the details how to do this later in the article. Let's start here: What is a shower pan?

The term "pan" originates from when contractors used to install a copper pan in the base of where the shower was being built.

The "Before":

The use of the copper pan transitioned into using 4 lb sheet lead (weighs 4lbs per sq ft, giving it that name), because it's very malleable and could be shaped easily on site. A contractor could measure up the size needed, go out to the garage or driveway, bend up the corners as needed with a 2×6 and rubber mallet, folding corners over each other and overlapping so all the edges were at the top. Weighing 4lbs per square foot, it was quite a chunk to lug through the house, but could be done with two guys, and it could be folded in on itself, since it's so malleable, in order to get through tight hallways and around corners.

Using the rubber mallet again, they would hammer an impression of the drain into the lead, giving a mark to cut out the drain hole. Once the hole was cut out, the drain flange could be attached, making a watertight seal. An adjustable shower drain was then threaded into the flange, and pea gravel placed around the weep holes to protect them from the deck mud that was installed next. Deck mud is a dry cement, wetted just enough to let the cement hold shape, allowing it to be packed in creating the slope needed for water to flow toward the drain.

The "Pre-Slope":

Here is where many who take on the task of building their own shower, without any experience doing so, go wrong. The pre-slope is a slight slope of the floor draining toward the shower drain, created with dry-pack cement before the shower pan is installed. Despite what you may think, water can and will penetrate all the way through the tile, mortar and concrete above the shower pan, making its way down to the shower pan. In the absence of a pre-slope below the shower pan, the pan will be flat on the floor surface, keeping any of that water in the concrete from percolating down and into the weep holes of the shower drain. When the concrete remains moist, mold growth will occur over time, eventually causing considerable damage.

To create the pre-slope on a plywood surface you must first lay down a layer of felt paper (isolates concrete from floor movement), then staple down a layer of Metal Lath. Mix cement with enough water to get it to hold shape, and pack it down creating a slope from 1/8″ thick at the drain, up toward the shower edge at a slope of about 1/4″ per foot. On a concrete floor, the felt paper is not needed, concrete can be directly applied to floor.

Some point in between The "Before" and Now:

Labor time was greatly reduced when the use of vinyl membranes replaced the old lead pans. It can easily be rolled out, shaped into place in the shower, excess liner folded over itself in the corners, folded over the front shower curb, and a CPE bonding adhesive (in a can like PVC cement) used to seal up patches over corners. A newer kind of Tile Shower Drain was used with the vinyl membrane, like the one shown to the left.

The rubber membrane is to be wrapped up the wall NO LESS THAN 3 INCHES above the intended finished height of the shower threshold (curb or dam). Before wrapping the membrane up the sidewalls, install 2×10 board pieces between studs to give a solid support to the liner and places to nail the liner to the wall. No nails or other fasteners are to be used anywhere except along the top perimeter of the pan liner, in order to prevent eventual leaks from occurring at the nail holes.

After the pan liner is installed, metal lath can be wrapped around the shower curb, which is made of 3 2×4′s nailed one on top of the other creating a 4.5 inch high threshold, and cement packed into the lath and on top of it, shaping the concrete into a smooth squared off surface for tile to be applied to.

I always go an easier route, however, and use the Kirb-Perfect product made by Mark E Industries: a plastic a product easily assembled to form a cage around the lined shower threshold, instead of forming the metal lath.

Concrete board, 1/2″ thick 3′x5′ sheets, can then be measured, cut, and installed on walls using weatherproof screws (to keep rust stains from coming through grout later on as regular screws rust). The concrete board should be installed leaving a 1/2″ space between it and the pan liner, pressing the liner on the wall against the studs and 2×10 boards.

The Actual Concrete Slope:

Once the threshold is finished, create the concrete slope inside the shower pan liner, being careful to make the surface as smooth and even as possible to allow small floor tiles to lay better when tiling. A chalk line can be made around the concrete board on the walls for a guide line, giving about a 1/4″ - 1/2″ slope per foot up from the adjustable shower drain to the shower walls.

Again, I take the easier and quicker route, using Mark E's Quick Pitch kit, which includes a plastic ring to place around the shower drain (protects weep holes from being filled by concrete), and slope plastic sticks that fit into the ring and are placed around it to radiate out to the corners and sides. They can easily be cut to length with tin snips or a saw. This gives me a perfect pitch every time, and fast!

Now: The Next System MOST People Will Transition To:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the method I just explained to you. It is still used my the majority of contractors and, at this point, is the least expensive route to go. However, as you probably know, new technologies are coming along every year, revolutionizing ways things have been done in construction for decades and centuries.

A system I use now, when homeowners have a bigger budget, utilizes products made by a German brand named Schluter. They have competitors in their market, but they have led the way and own most of their market share. Their products all work together to make a completely waterproof shower, and can be installed much quicker than the old system just explained.

Schluter contends that even if your properly install a shower with the old system as I just described, water can still stay in the concrete for a prolonged amount of time causing mold problems. With their system, the floor and walls are waterproofed with a plastic membrane and there is no exposed concrete to absorb water below the tile. Water that goes through the tile will drain directly along the plastic membrane to the drain.

Here is how it works:

First, once plumbing and all else is ready, install concrete board to your walls, from floor to ceiling. I purchase Schluter's Kerdi Shower-Kit that has almost all you need to build a waterproof shower ready for tile. The first item out of the kit to use is an expanded polystyrene shower base. It's already built with the correct slope, all you need to do is cut the foam (quite easy to do) to fit the opening. Mix a batch of Thinset and apply with notched trowel to the subfloor, then set the shower base firmly into the mortar.

Next, you can set a Schluter Bench in place where desired, which is basically a big block of expanded polystyrene, and it too can be cut to fit the space quite easily. This is not included in the shower kit, so many times I still build my own bench with treated 2×4′s and concrete board.

In the shower kit is a product called Kerdi, a plastic sheet with bright orange fleece webbing adhered to both sides. The plastic membrane waterproofs the shower, and the webbing provides binding contact surface for ThinSet to adhere to on both sides; one side to the concrete board wall, and tile on the other side.

Apply the 3″ wide Kerdi Strips on all corners with ThinSet. After all corners are sealed, apply the Kerdi to the walls, and bench if you have one installed.

One Key Point About Applying Kerdi to Concrete Board Walls: Mix the ThinSet thinner than usual, pancake batter consistency, because otherwise the concrete board will suck the moisture out of the ThinSet before it ever sets up, and the Kerdi will peel right off!

Next, insert the included Shower Drain disc into a generous amount of ThinSet in the center hole and glue onto drain pipe below the floor. Then clean off excess ThinSet that oozed up through the holes around the ring of the disc.

Now install, with ThinSet, a piece of Kerdi on the floor, cutting out a hole for the drain. Then install the included Schluter Kerdi Shower Curb, cutting it to length, and setting with ThinSet. Again, this is easy to cut and install because it too is expanded polystyrene. Once it is set, install a piece of Kerdi up and over the shower curb, and seal corners with Kerdi-Kereck, also included in the shower kit. Also, at the openings around shower valves, install included Kerdi Seal pieces

Now you have the newest and best way to build a Shower Pan finished, and ready for tile!

... But we'll save that for the next article! Get to work!

Brent Wehmeyer is a residential contractor experienced in building custom tile showers for homeowners. He maintains a resource website at TileShowerDIY.com where you can read in depth articles on everything involving Tile Showers.

Foundation Waterproofing Vs Dampproofing

Most people who build a new home with a basement plan on making it an added living space. New homeowners want to install a large screen TV, a pool table or maybe another bedroom. They expect that their basement will be dry and free of water. But what they don't know is that it may be possible that their basements are not waterproof.

Water vapor that gets into a basement causes the musty odors that you smell in a basement. Any liquid water that gets into a basement can damage carpets, drywall and any insulation that is installed inside the basement. And it can cause mold to grow.

First the Basics

Not all foundation coatings are waterproofing. When foundations are built, many are coated with what is called dampproofing. This is a bituminous asphalt membrane that is black in appearance. While it has been used for decades, it does not truly waterproof a basement. Dampproofing can stop water vapor, but that is it. Dampproofing cannot stop liquid water from getting through the foundation walls and into the basement.

Foundation Waterproofing Membranes

According to the ICC-ES, a non-profit public benefit corporation that evaluates products and sets performance criteria for the residential building market, waterproofing must do three things. First, it must stop water vapor. This gaseous form of water is released by the surrounding soils and can move through the foundation walls and into the basement.

Secondly, waterproofing membranes must be able to stop liquid water under hydrostatic pressure. In easy to understand terms, hydrostatic pressure is the force exerted by liquid water that is in the soil. You can think of it just like the water in a water tower. The taller the soil and therefore the higher the water column in it, the greater the hydrostatic pressure against your foundation. Also, the amount of water that is in the soil itself can affect the amount of hydrostatic pressure. The greater the amount of water in the ground, the higher the hydrostatic pressure exerted against the foundation.

Third and most important is that waterproofing must span a crack in a foundation. Foundations crack as a normal process of concrete curing, and if that crack is not sealed against water intrusion, it can leak when it rains.

Why Dampproofing will not Stop Water

Dampproofing does not have the ability to stop liquid water under hydrostatic pressure. This is because it goes on very thin, only 10 mils thick in some cases. Water under hydrostatic pressure can go right through it.

Because the dampproofing is brittle and has no flexibility, it cannot span a crack in a foundation. When the foundation cracks, so does the dampproofing. Therefore, liquid water can penetrate into the basement area.

The terms waterproofing and dampproofing are incorrectly used interchangeably. So, when you are building your new home, be sure that your builder is using a quality waterproofing membrane. It will give years of protection and effectively give you a larger living space that will stay dry and keep your finished basement safe from water.

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz who's with Applied Technologies Aaron is a member of the Construction Specifications Institute and has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States. For more information about foundation waterproofing visit Applied Technologies on the web.

Importance of the Basement Waterproofing

The basement waterproofing is the technique in which the basement of the building are built in such a way that the water does not enter inside the building. It prevents from the wetting of the basement walls. This type of basement waterproofing is done in many types. The protection is given from inside only. The coating is given inside and the building basement is given protection from the penetration of the drainage and the water into the building basement. In the waterproofing procedure the basement walls are sealed properly in such a way that the water does not enter the building in any possibilities. The basement is thoroughly checked for all the minute holes present in it and all the holes are sealed.

The importance of the basement proofing is known well in the wet days. In heavy rain days there is a maximum chance for water getting penetrated inside the basement of the building. There is a phrase told that the strength of the building depends on the basement of the building. So the basement has to be protected from the water penetration. The basement waterproofing is the important factor which helps us a lot during the rainy days. In the low lying areas the there is a maximum chance of water or drainage getting penetrated inside the building if the waterproofing is not proper.

The polymer based components are used in the procedure of waterproofing of the building, the polymer components increases the lifetime of the buildings. If the waterproofing is done well then the building can live for longer years without any damage. It is important that the basements must have ventilation facility such that even though all the holes are sealed, there must be some option for the air circulation. This fact has to be taken into consideration when thinks about the importance of the basement waterproofing.

Visit website to know more about basement waterproofing.

Do-It-Yourself Basement Waterproofing

If your basement leaks I am sure you are tired of the headaches it causes. But what can you do? You have basically 2 choices: either call an expensive contractor, or do it by yourself. Do it yourself basement waterproofing can be a simple task if you choose the right product, and it will help you save time and most importantly, money.

Don't let waterproofing your home without the aid of professionals intimidate you. There are many different products out on the market to assist you in waterproofing your basement. Here are some of the choices to help you decide:

Basement Dry: To use this product a hole is drilled into the basement floor, a probe is then inserted into the hole. The probe is essential for detecting ground water. Once water is detected, the probe will suck up the water into the self-priming pump. What makes this product effective is, when the water is removed from under the floor, the pressure is removed also. If the water was never removed, pressure would still be present, resulting in the water being pushed into any crack in the floor or wall.

Crystalline basement waterproofing. Used all over the world for many years. Highly effective as it penetrates deep inside your walls/floor where the crystals expand over the years sealing it permanently! Withstands extremely high pressure. Can be applied to any concrete surface. Comes as a powder in bucket, you just mix it with water and apply with roller or brush according to instruction. What can be easier than that?

SquidGee Dry: This fabrication works on poured and block walls. With block walls water is trapped in the holes of the block. To drain the water simply drill small holes on the bottom layer of block, using the SquidGee Dry. It is not necessary to drill in every single block. Once the water is released it goes to the SquidGee Dry. With poured walls the process is also simple. Unlike block walls, poured walls are not hollow. Water comes through the cracks and goes to the "cold joint" (where the floor and wall meet.) Seal these cracks from top to bottom. But leave the very bottom unsealed, so the water can then go to the SquidGee Dry.

Another alternative is to go to your town's hardware store, and buy some Concrete Water-proofer. This method may be the least expensive route to do it yourself waterproofing, but also the least reliable. The process is also quite easy, but this is where the time consuming part comes in to play. Depending on how many cracks you have or wish to fill. To prepare the floor or walls when fixing and mending cracks you would want to follow these four steps:

1. Chisel a rectangular "U" shaped groove along crack.

2. Remove debris from groove by flushing with water and scrubbing with a brush.

3. Fill groove with a fast-setting hydraulic cement compound available at building supply stores.

4. Apply the cement water-proofer, over the repaired area, as directed on the product.

Well, here you have some choices on How to waterproof you basement by yourself. Just pick one of the options above, and your home should be dry in no time.

For more info about waterproofing visit [http://homehouseresources.com/category/waterproofing/] where you can find many more Resources and Tips on Home Improvement, Home Repair, Home Security, Home Financing, Decorating, Remodeling, Do-It-Yourself Tips, Residential Contractors, How To Advice and more... Visit [http://www.homehouseresources.com]

Discover Waterproofing Sealants That Work

Patching leaks in the facility is as easy as ABC when facility managers know the right type of sealant to use. Working closely with commercial building waterproofing contractors, the facility manager can choose the most superior sealing product that will satisfy the building's unique requirements. With many products out in the market, what are the choices?

Criteria in Choosing Waterproofing Sealants

The main criterion in choosing the sealant to use for commercial building waterproofing is suitability to the building's waterproofing needs. The commercial building waterproofing application should be a reconciliation of facility needs and product performance.

Another criterion for commercial building waterproofing that is often hard to ignore is cost. But facility managers should not at any instance sacrifice performance over cost, nor be influenced by cost considerations alone. If it is possible to find a balance between good performance and savings, this must be done. That is the reason why facility managers should work only with certified waterproofing contractors who can select the most appropriate sealant for the facility and use their years of experience and industry knowledge to work within the project budget.

Sealant Categories for All Types of Waterproofing Needs

Commercial building waterproofing sealants cut across three broad categories, and they are as follows:

1. Silicone-Based Sealants

These sealants are considered of the highest quality by industry standards. They are more versatile than other sealants because they deliver superior adhesive bonds to almost any surface type -- wood, glass, plastic, metal, fibrous surfaces, and even already-coated surfaces.

Silicon sealants evolved from nuclear and nanotechnology researches, as such they are stable and very resistant to extreme conditions such as fluctuating temperature and UV radiations. They are also used in marine waterproofing because they have stable chemical and electrical properties, and are often the sealant of choice in off-shore oil rigs that need high-performing fire retardant sealants.

Since these products use an expensive material -- silicone -- in their formulation, they are more expensive than other sealant products. However, that is more than made up for by high performance and a 20-year service life guarantee.

2. Urethane-Based Sealants

Urethane-based sealants offer a good compromise between cost and performance, and are often the preferred choice in more commercial building waterproofing projects.

Urethane sealants have decent useful life. They can last as long as 10 years with proper application. They also provide flexibility that is very useful in commercial building waterproofing projects that require sealing areas subjected to constant joint movements.

Since urethane-based products can be painted over, they are the preferred option for projects with aesthetic considerations. Thematic colors can be used for the building without hindering the performance of the underlying urethane sealants.

Urethane sealants are often used in waterproofing glass insulations, joint sealing, roofing membrane sealing, concrete and metal commercial building waterproofing, and even machinery coating.

3. Resin Modifiers

Developments in adhesion technology have synthesized polymers at their molecular level. The results are phenolic resins that are used to produce low-cost adhesives. Resin-based sealing formulations have excellent adhesion to many surface types. They can resist water intrusion and high temperature heat and flame. As part of a commercial building waterproofing solution, resin modifiers offer strength and reliability minus the expense.

Choosing the correct sealant suitable for a particular commercial building waterproofing project need not be a formidable task. Working with certified waterproofing contractors and gaining a basic knowledge of what's in the market today makes the task easy.

Steve Parker, Sr. Estimator. RaiderPainting.com is one of the leading painting contractors providing commercial and industrial painting services to over 1,000 Fortune 500 customer nationwide. We are one of the best known painting companies, to deliver top quality service to clients. Call 877-724-3371 for a no obligation Estimate.

The Motorola Defy - Offering The Perfect Balance Of Smartphone Technology And Durable Build Quality

The Motorola Defy has taken a gap in the market which has, until now, remained relatively untouched. It caters for those who want full smartphone functionality but in a more durable device than this technology is usually associated with. The fact that is shockproof, waterproof, and dustproof is sure to appeal to many users who need these qualities in a phone due to workplace or lifestyle.

In this article, I will look at the main specifications of the phone and see if it is as good as its rival smartphones.

First impressions of the Motorola Defy are good; it may lack a bit of style and flair, but it is by no means an unattractive device. Although it is clear that this phone is about substance over style, it is not too dissimilar to rival handsets produced by HTC or Samsung.

The spec list of the Motorola Defy reads pretty much as you would expect that of the majority of smartphones currently available to. The handset packs an impressive 5 megapixel digital camera with LED flash and VGA video capture. Autofocus and image stabilisation are also on hand to simplify the process, at the same time improving the quality of the resulting images. As a cameraphone it seems, it offers similar technology to many of its rivals; it is by no means on par with the likes of the Nokia N8, but produces pleasing results all the same.

Several connectivity options allow users to surf the internet via the full HTML browser which even supports flash. 3G and Wi-Fi are on hand to provide the most appropriate browsing connection based on the availability of local networks and signal strength. Web pages load relatively quickly and the touchscreen responds very quickly with an 800 MHz processor under the hood to provide all the computing power the handset may need. This makes for a very pleasant browsing experience, especially over a Wi-Fi network.

The operating system of choice for the Motorola Defy is Android 2.1 (Eclair) however this can be upgraded to later versions such as 2.2 (Froyo) and the latest 2.3 (Gingerbread), meaning that users can take advantage of the latest software without needing to buy any new hardware. The advantages of the Android operating system are numerous, and its continually increasing popularity is testament to this. One of the major draws of the OS is the famous Android Market. This comes with access to thousands of apps, which users can browse and download at their leisure. This means that the functionality can be increased massively, to suit the needs of individual users. This is great for the Motorola Defy, as it has a capable processor which can handle demanding applications with ease.

There is a long list of features you would expect from any Android smartphone, installed as standard on the Motorola Defy. Social networking applications, along with locations based services such as Google Maps, the latter functioning thanks to built in GPS.

This article only goes over the basics of what this handset has to offer. Whilst it may not boast any groundbreaking hardware or software, it has a spec list which makes it a superb all rounder and great for every day use. The fact that it is durable is an added bonus; you may work outdoors or live a hectic lifestyle, or maybe you are all too familiar with the scenario of dropping your phone on the ground only to have a smartphone with a smashed screen. Either way, the Motorola Defy offers a great option, and surprisingly affordable.

Check out the best Motorola Defy deals and Motorola Atrix deals

Overcoming Obstacles in Large-Scale Waterproofing Projects

Setting up an effective waterproofing deck coating system for facilities of immense dimensions is often a formidable task. The sheer size brings many challenges that need to be met because of the massive structural elements.

Here are some of the problems, issues and challenges involved in waterproofing large structures:

1. Coverage

The scope of a waterproofing deck coating project for, say, the recent Beijing Olympic Games, is nothing less than vast. The entire area needs waterproofing for roofs, basements, floors and decks. Keeping the area of a large facility safe from water penetration requires extensive skills, techniques, and a large volume of coating not normally encountered in standard-sized projects.

2. Coatings Selection

Although the process of selecting the best waterproofing deck coating products for large structures is no different from paint selection for regular-sized buildings, the project size undeniably introduces complications in the selection process. The barrier system will need appropriate coatings that suit the building's function and the environmental conditions surrounding the building. The exception is that the coatings will be needed in large quantities to cover larger surface areas.

3. Ease of Installation

A large-scale waterproofing deck coating project needs above-average resources in its implementation. More manpower is needed. The quantities of tools and equipments increase with the size of the project area. And of course, the paint volume is large. All of this because the project has to follow a time schedule, which is the only variable that may not increase despite the scope of the project. For these unique requirements, every resource should be of top quality -- from paints, tools, and personnel -- to deliver an error-free and on-time project. Skilled applicators should be onsite, high-performing tools should be used, and coating products should be easy to store, mix, apply, cure and dispose of, so as not to disrupt the project's timeline.

4. Comprehensive Testing

The daunting scope of the waterproofing deck coating project can be a liability if coating effectiveness is not achieved. Coatings can fail due to a poor selection process, improper preparation, or bad application. This could have been prevented if diligent and comprehensive test for leakage has been conducted for the project. Leakage evaluation can be difficult to implement in large-scale projects, but it has to be done despite the enormity of the task, to ensure waterproofing success.

5. Integration with Existing Systems

Size introduces complexity, particularly in integrating the waterproofing deck coating system with the facilities' other vital engineering systems. Coating applicators must work their way around piping and plumbing systems, HVAC systems, and other complex systems integral to facility operations. The larger area amplifies the logistical complexity of systems integration. Facility owners deal with the complexity at the initial building planning and design stage, wherein the waterproofing system is installed right at the start of construction, to lessen the chances of membrane failure.

Large structures are often considered a triumph in human engineering. The size is impressive, but very little is known about the collective amount of effort that went behind making the building so. Particularly in waterproofing deck coating application for immense structures, everything is magnified -- from the skills and size of the crew, to the quantity of materials and coatings needed to coat the surface areas, to the quality of waterproofing deck coating products that need to withstand major loads and traffic for a long period of time.

Steve Parker, Sr. Estimator. RaiderPainting.com is the leading painting contractor providing commercial and industrial painting services to over 1,000 Fortune 500 customers and small businesses nationwide. Call 877-724-3371 for a no obligation Epoxy Coatings Estimate. Read our daily Raider Painting Blog.

The Needs for Building Waterproofing

Water entering the premises of a residential or commercial building is not a good thing as it can damage the structure and infrastructure of the building as well. The structure of the building gets weak when water intrudes and collects, and this is also a major cause of worry as this makes the building unsafe for people to stay in and work in.

One needs to be careful and watch out for signs of waterproofing problems so that he/she can take the right measures to prevent it from aggravating and spoiling more things. If there is continuous moisture seepage, one will see wet floors and basement walls. Another sign of the problem is fungi and mould growth as these generally grow where there is moisture. If one finds that their furniture or any other wooden things are decaying, it is a sign of worry. This means that there is a waterproofing problem as this generally happens when the humidity and temperature levels of the room change. Many times, an area experiences extreme weather and heavy rains, which cause pools of water to form in the house. If these pools disappear after some time, then there is no need for the building owner to worry. But in case if one finds water pools there for quite an extraordinary period, these may become a problem. Make sure that there is no consistent problem in the waterproofing system of your house or building.

Waterproofing of the building is very important as it prevents the entry of the water in the building through roof, walls, basements and decks. When there is adequate water proofing in the building, the building has controlled levels of humidity and can breathe easily; if unwanted water enters such a building, it can be drained out easily. The air quality of the building is also maintained with proper waterproofing systems. The interior temperature of a building is very important to make the building comfortable and this can be done with a proper waterproofing system.

Waterproofing of a building is very important and it must be taken care of at different times. The first thing that one needs to take care of is to incorporate waterproofing when the building is being constructed. All measures for this should be taken care at this stage else it would involve problems at later stages. After the construction of a building, adequate measures to avoid water logging should be taken. All buildings need to be maintained and during the course of maintenance, waterproofing should be checked thoroughly so as to avoid any danger or insecurity to life and health. One should regularly inspect the building and ensure that adequate measures are taken in case of any fault in the waterproofing system.

For more information on Basement Waterproofing in NJ visit Mold in Basement